Vegan vs. Vegan: Understanding Ingredients

It seems as if more and more, recently, the trend in bath and body products is to make plenty of vegan options, or have your whole line be vegan. Making a milk based soap can offer some incredible differences in the properties of the soap itself, as well as the benefits you get from it, but it's definitely possible to make a vegan version of that soap that has some similar benefits as well. And in terms of making lotions, body creams, etc, from a manufacturing standpoint it's much easier to not have to deal with milk than it is to include it. While most of the time The Soap Distillery will offer mainly vegan products (things that are vegan are clearly marked!), from time to time we will offer something a little different. We want to make sure that we are offering the best products that we can, in the highest quality possible. 

Now, let's say you, our fabulous potential customer (or current customer!), are on the hunt specifically for a vegan product. There are many manufacturers that offer vegan products using vegan ingredients, but all vegan ingredients are NOT created equal. Please, do not be swayed by "cruelty free" and "no animal by-products". While these are all great things to consider when purchasing a product that claims to be vegan, it's not the only thing to consider. We see this time and time again: a product is, by definition vegan, but the ingredients are, chemically speaking, proven to be bad for your skin and sometimes your overall health. This means that, even though anyone can have a reaction to anything, these ingredients are shown to be irritants or even worse, linked to cancer causing materials. So, how do you know which ingredients to avoid to limit your potential irritant response? Well, let's do a breakdown of some common "vegan" ingredients that skincare companies frequently use:

Parabens: Parabens are a part of a class of chemical compounds that are commonly used in preservatives for skincare products. While all chemicals are not bad, parabens are definitely on the list of ingredients to avoid. You may commonly see them listed as methylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, and benzylparaben. These chemicals, while mostly non sensitizing, have been linked to breast cancer cells as they can sometimes mimic estrogen. (read on: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paraben)

Formaldehyde donors (DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea, imidiazolidinyl urea, and quaternium 15): These compounds are also commonly used in preservatives. As a preservative, their efficacy is very good. However, they work by releasing formaldehyde into our cosmetics. Formaldehyde can naturally occur in the air we breathe and can be emitted from fruits and vegetables. So, why are they so terrible? It seems there isn’t a great way to find how much formaldehyde actually ends up in the product, or how much can end up in your body. I personally avoid them because of the uncertainty and they are also known carcinogens (http://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/?objectid=03C9AF75-E1BF-FF40-DBA9EC0928DF8B15)

Lauryl/Laureth Sulfates: This should be an easy one! More and more consumers are aware of the irritation that can be caused by these chemical surfactants. These powders are commonly used in body washes, toothpaste, and dish detergents, as they are great for degreasing. The main issue with these sulfates is that the particle size is very tiny, and is easily absorbed by the skin which can cause irritation. Also, their strong cleaning ability can strip your skin of the moisture it really needs. Because they are penetrant enhancers, they can draw other irritants into the skin as well. (Read on: Why sulfates are bad https://www.google.com/search?q=why+sulfates+are+bad&oq=why+sulfates+are+bad&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.5037j0j7&sourceid=chrome&espv=210&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8)

Cocamide DEA (and MEA): Another chemical surfactant, this ingredient is commonly used in body washes as it is a good foamer and an emulsifier. This ingredient has been linked as a possible carcinogen (read on: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cocamide_DEA)

Propylene Glycol: also known as 1,2-propanediol (which shouldn’t be confused with propanediol which is plant based [1 ,3-propanediol]) is a petro chemical that is relatively safe when used in combination with low irritation ingredients. It’s a solvent that is commonly used to maintain clarity in body wash, and add smoothness to body creams. While toxicity has been found to be low (but existent), this ingredient is also a penetrant enhancer and can assist in causing irritation from other ingredients.

Phthalates: Commonly found in fragrance oils, phthalates are known endocrine disruptors. Now what does that mean? It means that they interrupt the function of hormones, which can cause birth defects, decreased sperm count, early breast development, and other hormonal issues.

Ok, so that’s a short but very detailed list of some very common vegan products to avoid. When shopping for products, make sure that the company states that they are free of these products. If they do not list specific ingredients, feel free to ask what’s in it, or ask if they contain any of these nasties! The Soap Distillery currently does not use, or will ever use, any of these ingredients. We will continue to be 100% handmade, and we will continue to use raw ingredients and spend countless hours formulating our products. But, even if you decide not to buy our products, make sure you are making informed purchases with other Handmade companies. We want to treat your skin well, and we like other companies that feel the same way!